I read the lease before you sign it.

I’m an independent copier and printer broker in New Jersey. I’m not a dealer rep with a quota — I size the machine to what you actually print, negotiate the term and the cost per page, and tell you when the deal in front of you is a bad one.

Two ways to do this. Call me with your invoice in front of you and we’ll work it out together — or work it out yourself first.

Work it out yourself

All three run in your browser. None of them ask for your details.

Free tool
What your copier actually costs per page
Your monthly payment is not your cost. Overage and a separately billed service charge sit outside it, so the quoted figure is never the whole number.
Free tool
When your notice deadline falls
Most leases auto-renew. The window shuts months before the term ends, and missing it costs you another year.
Guide
What a buyout figure contains
It is three or four separate things, and they are not equally negotiable. Knowing which is which is the leverage.

Serving Bergen, Passaic, Essex, Hudson and Union and the rest of my New Jersey coverage, plus New York City and Philadelphia.

What “independent” means here

I work for the company buying the copier.

I don’t work for a manufacturer and I don’t work for a dealer. I size the machine to your real volume, negotiate the term and the cost per page, and tell you when the deal in front of you is a bad one — including when the right answer is to keep what you have.

What it doesn’t mean: I’m not a marketplace that quotes every brand on the market. Here is exactly what I can and can’t get you today, through my dealer partner.

Can source today

Brother
Canon
KIP
Kyocera

Can’t source today

Konica Minolta
Lexmark
Ricoh
Sharp
Toshiba
Xerox

If your requirement points to a line I can’t source, I’ll say so on the first call and point you somewhere useful.

What I actually do

Read what you have now. Your real cost per page is rarely the number on the quote. Send me the invoice and the agreement.
Size the machine to the volume. Not to the quota, and not to whatever the last rep left behind.
Negotiate the term and the click charge. The monthly payment is the number people argue about; the click charge is where the money is.
Tell you when the answer is no. Including when the right move is to keep the equipment you already have.

Have me look at it

Three ways, cheapest first. All of them end with you knowing your real cost per page.

Call or text me with the invoice in front of you.It is a short call, not a pitch.
Or just send the invoice. That alone gets you your true cost per page and whether the allowance is sized right.
Send the lease schedule too and I’ll also find your notice deadline and read the terms. The schedule is only needed for the deadline.

What happens next: I read it and email you back a written summary within one business day. If I need anything else I’ll ask by email. No phone call unless you ask for one.

Call +1-917-864-2997 Email the invoice

Or write to lmalagon@gmail.com — some work machines block the button above.

If the answer is that your current deal is fine, I’ll tell you that. I’d rather be the person who told you the truth when there was nothing in it for me.

How I get paid: the dealer pays me a commission on completed orders. You don’t pay me a fee. Ask me at any point what I make on your deal and I’ll tell you.

Common questions

Are you an authorised dealer?

No. I’m an independent broker. The dealers I place orders through are authorised for the lines they carry, and they handle install and service. I handle the scoping, the negotiating and the contract.

What if my job needs something you can’t source?

I’ll tell you on the first call. I’d rather send you to the right place than bend a spec to fit my line card.

Do I have to buy anything to get the review?

No, and there’s no fee either way. More about how I work and who I am.